Kennedy Ranges

The Kennedy Ranges are about 1000 kilometers north of Perth, just inland 200km from Carnarvon on the West Coast. It is quite a long journey and although it can be done in one day it is advisable to break it up into a two or three day journey and enjoy some of the other spots along the way. You can travel inland up the dirt roads or north along the sealed roads up to Carnarvon and then turn east along the dirt roads to Gascoyne junction and on to the Kennedy Ranges. Our first trip was in August and the dirt roads were in exceptionally good order, but it always a good idea to phone ahead and check on the road conditions and for flooding (yes, especially in flat dry places) particularly in the wetter months.

(The road east leaving the Kennedy Ranges)

Holidaying in this part of the country is not the same as down south where there are trees and shade and plenty of facilities. It is hot and dry and dusty (for about 5 months of the year) and it is comparably isolated. You will need your own food and water although you can get water and fuel and a beer at Gascoyne Junction where the Lyon river meets the Gascoyne river. (The locals are really friendly and will tell a local yarn without to much persuasion). When traveling inland it is always a good idea to carry water, some fuel and food and let someone know where you are going.

Around the Kennedy Ranges there are quite a few different walks you can do but they are not marked very well (except for a scratched out arrow on the side of a rock) and there is no information on site. So you need to pick up a brochure from the department of Conservation and Land Management or a local tourist bureau before you go.

Bear in mind that these ranges are rocky and steep and a lot of caution is required when walking around, even on the trails. Ledges are covered in loose rocks and rocks can fall from above and you enter this area at your own risk. Having said that, I have taken my kids here and they have walked for hours through the gorges climbing up and along rocks and ledges and we had a great time.

(You can clearly see the layers and folds of rock running through the ranges)

The ranges themselves are 75 kilometers long and 25 kilometers wide. The rocks are sandstone and shale and basalt. When walking you can see the layers of rocks laid down at different times as well as the lava rock formations. There are no roads that go around the ranges and the best way to explore and soak in the true nature of the area is to walk. Make sure you carry water with you and wear a hat, do your discovering early morning and late afternoon.

(Trails are not well marked so you are free to roam where ever you dare)

You should watch out for snakes in this environment particularly during the spring and summer, the Mulga snake is found here. We saw birds of prey and flocks of zebra finches, lots of ants, crickets, golden orb spiders, feral goats springing along the cliffs, bats, geckos (always check under the toilet seat!), black glove wallabies, emus, red kangaroos and many different lizards.

(A yellow spotted monitor -Varanus panoptes - crossed the road in front of us)

(These ants were taking this green caterpillar away for a spring feast)

There are four different parking sites at the base of the ranges, but only one of these is for camping and the ranger will fine you if you are found staying in the wrong one, so make sure you get a brochure from a the local tourist bureau or CALM office. The camp site has quite a few spaces, there are toilets at three of the sites but no cooking facilities are available and fire restrictions will apply at different times of the year. There is no drinking water available, so if you are planning a few days make sure you bring plenty of fresh water. There are no fees for camping, but if you are not up for sleeping under the stars there is basic accommodation at Gascoyne Junction.

(Zebra Finches came to the water hole in large flocks, they are quite tiny birds)

This is a holiday for families who don't want to be around the shops, TV or computers. A holiday for those who want to explore wild places and observe wildlife. A holiday for those not afraid of a little adventure.

I thoroughly enjoy this place and feel a sense of peace and awe when I am there.

Make sure you check out our Kennedy Ranges story at Wildlife Tales for more on the wildlife we saw and the wild time we had!

Update;

I returned here for a quick one day side trip on my way home in December. It was hot but we managed one walk but did not see much in the way of wildlife. At night again bats darted around us catching the insects attracted to the lantern. And unfortunately there were a lot of nasty biting ants in the camping area that only took a break in the middle of the day. I did find three species of Jumping spiders all within a metre of each other. Go to our Creepy Crawlies section and then onto our Spider pages to see them.